Custom tuning · Every option, explained
Tune options & FAQ.
Aggression levels, pops, ghost cams, launch control, the technical detail — and straight answers to the questions we get asked most. Everything that goes into a Cherry tune, in one place.
How we tune
Custom — not a one-size 'Stage 1'.
Your tune is always built for the exact mods on your car. The level you pick isn't tied to how modified you are — it's how we approach your build.
Most tuners hand you a 'Stage 1' file and a shopping list, and tune every car much the same. We take your specific modifications into account every time, so an aggressive tune on a stock car targets less than a mild tune on a full-bolt-on one.
Every custom tune comes with unlimited revisions until it's right (within reason). Turnaround has improved a lot since Byron joined full-time as our EK1 calibration engineer — most tunes and revisions now land in hours to days, not weeks.
The revision counts and timelines below are rough guides — we don't charge for extra revisions, and we're a small team juggling tune development, dyno days, mechanical work and shipping. We'll get your tune right.
Choose your level
How hard do you want to push?
Pick the approach that matches what you want from the car. We tune to it for your exact setup.
For owners who value longevity over peak numbers. Still a real performance and drivability bump, but we make power safely rather than chasing every last kW.
Typically 0–2 revisions, usually 1–3 days end to end.
Where we tune most cars — a strong balance of power and reliability, pushed to what we consider the safe limit for your mods. Great for spirited street driving and the odd track day.
Typically 1–4 revisions, usually within a week.
Maximum power for your setup. We push harder than normal — not into territory we consider dangerous, but chasing peak power can shorten component life. Needs good fuel and a well-maintained car.
Typically 2–5 revisions, usually a week or so depending on revision pace.
Required for builds with water/meth injection, a port-injection manifold, an upgraded or hybrid turbo (beyond the FL/EN swap), nitrous, or E85. A much deeper process with extensive data analysis.
Typically 5+ revisions; your engineer gives a specific estimate — usually days rather than weeks.
Personalise it
Custom features.
Optional extras you can add to any tune. Pick what you want when you order — your car, your choice.
Pops & bangs
Not on by default, and how we make them matters: we never add extra fuel to make pops — we work within the factory systems.
- 2.0T N-models: we use the factory 'impulse combustion' structure to set length, intensity, frequency and RPM points — even different per gear.
- Non-N models: we extend the factory decel fuel-cut delay and use the coasting fuel already there. Adding pops needs a second-cat delete at minimum; louder/sharper needs a downpipe.
- Levels: No pops · Burble · Reduced · Standard · Aggressive · Crazy (catless, not for the street). Mind your neighbours and local laws!
Pop length
We can vary how long the pops last: Unmodified (0.4–0.8s by model) · Short (~0.6s) · Standard (~0.8s) · Extended (~1s) · Very extended (~1.5s) · Continuous. Continuous carries a much higher risk of damage (and runs in all modes, even on N-models) — use with caution.
Idle speed increase
A small increase, a larger increase, or a static idle around 950 RPM regardless of drive mode. Smoother at idle — great with upgraded engine mounts — at a small fuel cost in traffic. Available for all models.
Ghost cams — the 'Cherry Chop'
A change to the variable valve timing (and a few other things) at idle that gives a lumpy, aggressive idle, like an upgraded cam. We set it by RPM, so 'ghost cams in N-mode' means at N-mode's raised idle. Best fully warm, idling, with the A/C off. A little rev-hang off idle is normal. You can't pick the always-raised idle and N-mode-only ghost cams together. 2.0T N-models.
Improved launch control
More torque, boost and RPM in the launch settings for a harder, more consistent launch that performs as well as it sounds. We focus on a functional launch, not just noise. 2.0T N-models.
Take-off / clutch mod
More RPM and torque on the clutch 'anti-stall', making take-off from a stop far easier — you can often crawl in traffic without touching the accelerator. Manual 2.0T N-models.
Fan mod
We retune the fan controller to run cooler — typically ramping the fans about 10°C earlier to keep the engine nearer 90°C than 100°C, and running them longer at idle and after shutdown. 2.0T N-models.
Exhaust valve mod
Sets the exhaust valve to stay open in N-mode for maximum noise. Available for all N-models, including the i20N.
Hush mod (AKA STFU mod)
The opposite — keeps the valve closed in Normal/Eco at low RPM and idle, to keep the peace with the neighbours. Available for all N-models, including the i20N.
Torque-by-gear
Reduces torque request (and boost) in 1st, 2nd and 3rd to cut wheel spin and improve off-the-line traction. Available for all N-models, including the i20N.
Hear it
The 'Cherry Chop'.
What our ghost cam tune actually sounds like at idle.
FAQ
The questions we get asked most.
Boost, power, fuel, safety, and what we will (and won't) do. If yours isn't here, just ask.
ECU patching (CANBOOT vs OBD)
Short version: while you don't need to patch your ECU before tuning with us, we generally still recommend it. The OBD protocol needs a separate step to 'unlock' the ECU. There's a newer CANBOOT method we can use to flash without that patch — but it's much slower and the chance of ECU damage is higher (a failed boot patch can brick the ECU, and CANBOOT runs that patch every single time you write a file).
The one important thing: if your ECU has been tuned or patched by someone else before, you must tell us. If it has an OBD patch on it and you try to write a CANBOOT file, it will brick the ECU.
How is boost and timing calculated?
Modern Hyundai/Kia ECUs don't have a single 'boost target' or 'ignition target' — they calculate constantly. Timing is worked out against cylinder fill (more air and boost means less timing for safety), and the ECU targets whatever boost it needs to hit the torque it's asked for, within the limits we set (with a small allowance above the base table). Our philosophy is to allow the ECU to make power, not force it — for the smoothest, safest torque curve.
Why boost isn't everything
Peak boost is a poor measure of turbo safety — what kills turbos is shaft speed. Two cars at the same 22psi can have wildly different (30,000–50,000 RPM) shaft speeds depending on exhaust flow, altitude and temperature. We tune for the whole picture — airflow, efficiency and safe turbo speed — not a peak PSI number.
Will my DCT slip?
Unless you're running one of our highest-level tunes hard — no. Many tuners hide torque from the TCU so it under-clamps the clutches (and wears them out). We do the opposite: we report accurate torque to the TCU so it applies the maximum safe clamping force.
What's the best fuel to run?
The highest grade you can easily get. In Australia we recommend 98RON first; if it's not available, E10 (94RON) second — the ethanol's cooling benefit more than makes up for the RON, and on our dyno E10 makes the same power as 95. In the US, 93 is ideal but we'll tune for 91. It's a custom tune — we build it for the fuel you'll actually run.
Can you do rolling anti-lag or flex fuel?
Not yet. Neither is a factory function — both need us to reverse-engineer the ECU's operating system and write custom code and maps (flex fuel also needs a way to read ethanol content). It's genuinely on our R&D roadmap, but it's extremely time-intensive and isn't available today.
Can you do a back-end flash (BEF) for a JB4 or RaceChip?
Yes — we've done plenty of cars running a piggyback for switchable boost, logging, CPI, WMI and more. We can supply a fully functional back-end tune that lets a front-end device switch boost modes, though we generally recommend letting the ECU keep full control where possible.
Can you do 2-step or 'show' tunes?
Our launch-control tune focuses on a genuinely faster, more functional launch rather than noise and flames. Our ghost cam + aggressive pops + launch tune is plenty of 'show' for most people — and if you want something specific, just mention it when you order and we'll work with you.
Will I get flames?
We don't promise flames, but they're not uncommon on our highest 'crazy' pop level (catless required). Run that option and we'd be surprised if you didn't get some.
How much power will I make?
We don't like quoting numbers — dyno results swing with tyres, strapping, how the dyno is run, cooling, pull length, weather, fuel and car condition. There's a Theta 2.0T power guide on the custom tuning page for a rough idea. What we promise is a fast, reliable tune you're happy with — backed by plenty of circuit, ¼-mile and Dragy results.
Do you disable CN7N octane learning?
Absolutely — it's a frustrating, overly-aggressive feature. When you're tuned for high-grade fuel we disable the structure that controls it.
Do you disable catalyst monitoring?
Generally yes for cars with a downpipe — we turn off the P0420 code, and fully disable cat monitoring on high-flow downpipe cars.
Do you disable the O2 sensors?
No. We do adjust the sensitivity of the downstream sensors so they keep giving accurate data for fuel trims at idle and cruise.
Do you disable overboost safety?
No — overboost protection stays fully active. Hit the limiter on our tune and the car drops into a 'no-boost' limp mode; a restart clears it.
Do you disable temperature correction?
No. All our tunes keep variable torque targets based on coolant, oil and intake-air temperatures — so the car protects itself when things get hot.
Ready to build your tune?
Order on the portal and pick your options, or read up on how it all works first.