Conservative tune (Reliability > Power)

This is for customers who value the reliability and longevity of their car more than they care how much power can be made. This option will still provide performance and drivability improvements; however, we will focus on making power in a safe and conservative manner, rather than focusing on how much power the car can make.

Standard tune (Reliability = Power)

This is generally where we tune most cars, striving for a good balance of power gains and reliability. We will push the car to what we consider the "safe limit" for the modifications on the car.

Aggressive Tune (Power > Reliability)

If you aren't worried about reliability or longevity of your car and just want to focus on making maximum power, this is the option for you. We will push the car harder than normal to make maximum power for your modifications. This doesn't mean that we're going to send you a tune file that we consider dangerous or specifically detrimental to your car, however chasing maximum power can potentially lead to shortened life on engine components. If you regularly track your car or tend to drive the car very hard for very long periods of time, this option probably isn't for you.

Example: The facelift i30N / Elantra turbo can make 27psi (or more) through the midrange if pushed hard, however we have found that some turbos have developed oil seal issues when pushed this hard for long periods of time, which requires replacement of the turbocharger. Even on an aggressive tune we won't generally push them this hard unless specifically requested.

Advanced or Complex Tune

You'll be required to purchase this option if you have anything from the list below:

• Water/Methanol Injection
• Port Injection Manifold
• Upgraded, Hybrid, or Aftermarket Turbocharger
  (This is not applicable for EN turbo on VN or FL turbo on Pre-FL)
• Nitrous (NOS) setup
• E85 Tuning

FOR NON-N OWNERS

(Cerato, Veloster, Elantra, SR/N-Line, or other Turbo Model*)

Do you want to add pops and bangs to your tune?

• No Pops - We won't add any kind of pop, bang, or decel burble to your tune
• Burble Tune - The car will occasionally pop, but most of the time you'll just get a more aggressive deceleration sound.
• Standard pop tune (usually 3-4 pops when backing off the throttle) - second cat delete minimum
• Aggressive pop tune (pops will be louder and sharper) - downpipe required
• Crazy pop tune - your car must be catless (not for street use)
  

*Note: If you want to add any level of pops to a non-turbo model you will need extensive exhaust modifications. We recommend you speak to us about this when booking the tune.

FOR N OWNERS

(Kona N, i30N, or Sedan N)

Do you want your pop tune modified?

• No Pops - We will disable the pop function in your car
• No Changes - We won't touch the factory pop tune settings at all
• Burble Tune - We will disable the actual pops and instead tune in an aggressive deceleration burble
• Reduced Pops - Sometimes requested when adding a downpipe to keep pops closer to stock
• Standard Pop Tune- We clean up the factory pop tune, making them more consistent and slightly louder
• Aggressive Pop Tune - We turn the pop tune up to make them louder
• Crazy Pop Tune - If you're trying to piss off your neighbours and scare children (catless required)

We can vary the length of the pop tune in your car, how long would you like your pops to be.

How long do you want your pops to be?

• Unmodified (varies by model and year, can be 0.4 seconds up to 0.8 seconds)
• Short (~0.6 seconds)
• Standard (~0.8 seconds)
• Extended (~1 second)
• Very Extended (~1.5 seconds)
• Continuous (use with caution)
  

Note: We can tune continuous pops into the car, however there is a much higher chance of causing damage to the car by doing this. If you have a cat, you won't for long. Continuous pops will be in all modes, even for N-models

For All Models

Raise the idle

We give you 3 options for raising the idle speed. A small increase, a larger increase, or a static idle speed regardless of mode. This will make the car always idle at ~ 950 RPM regardless of what engine mode you're in (eco, sport, Nmode, etc). An increased idle speed makes the car feel a lot smoother when idling and is great for anyone who has upgraded engine mounts installed, however there can be a small increase in fuel consumption if you spend a lot of time in traffic.

For 2.0T N (i30N, VN, KN, EN, etc.) models

Improved Launch Control

We add more torque, boost, and RPM to the launch settings allowing for a harder and more aggressive launch that both sounds more aggressive and performs better than standard.

Ghost Cams

(see notes below)

Take-Off Mod

(aka Clutch Mod - Manual transmission only)

We add more RPM and Torque to the clutch actuated "anti-stall" which makes taking off from a stop drastically easier. Infact, you can fully drive the car in traffic without needing to use the accelerator at all!

Fan Mod

We will change the setup of your fan controller to keep the car running cooler. Generally, we target around 10*C lower for the fan to ramp up to full speed, to keep the engine closer to 90*C instead of around 100*C

For all N models (including i20N)

Exhaust Mod

We will set the exhaust vale to be always open in N-Mode

Hush Mod

We will set the valve to be closed in Normal/Eco at low RPM and idle (great for grumpy neighbours)

Torque-by-gear

We reduce the torque request (and subsequently boost pressure) in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. This helps a lot with getting the car off the line and generally improves acceleration by reducing wheel spin.

What are Ghost Cams?

Ghost cams are a change that we make to the Variable Valve timing (and a few other things) when the car is idling. This allows us to give the car a lumpy idle sound, similar to a car with an upgraded camshaft.

We can only set the Ghost Cams by RPM, they're not directly linked to engine mode, so when we say "Ghost Cams in N-Mode" really what we mean is that we're doing the cams at the specific idle range set by the car being in N-mode (as N-mode has an increased idle). This means there will be times while the car is warming up and has a raised idle that the cams will try to activate. This clears up when the car is warm.

Due to the changes that we make when doing the ghost cams, it's normal to experience a small amount of "rev-hang" when revving the car up from the idle RPM. This can take a little getting used to when taking off from a set of lights, however once you're moving you shouldn't notice any difference from stock.

Note: The cam will only properly lope when the car is fully warmed up, idling, and the A/C is turned off.

Note 2: You cannot select the "always increased" idle option and still have the ghost cam in only N-mode.